Work your way along the sawdust-strewn walkways in downtown's Grand Central Market, past stalls selling dried chiles and fresh mangoes, fresh seafood and stacks of tortillas, to where you will find Tacos Tumbras A Tomas (a play on words meaning "You Get Used to Tomas") against the south wall.
Owned by Tomas Martinez, Tacos Tumbras a Tomas has long been a downtown insiders' hot spot. There's often a crowd, so belly up to the front where one of Tomas' hard working, ever-helpful staff can get your order.
During this phase of trendy taco fusion, Tomas is staying old-school. Slow-cooked meats keep warm in hotel pans: tongue, cheek, and goat, as well as the more-expected cuts, slowly stewed with spices, piled so high that you're given a fork and extra tacos with each taco. At $2.50 a taco, it's a steal.
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Tacos Tumbras a Tomas: 317 S Broadway, Los Angeles, (213) 620-1071. Mon-Sun. 9:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
Todd Porter also co-writes White On Rice Couple with his partner.