Adolfo Suaya's (BoHo, Surly Goat) newest restaurant, the Peruvian-Asian concept Osaka, officially opens tomorrow. Given the wave of new Peruvian restaurants like Picca, which offers Ricardo Zarate's spin on Peruvian-Japanese fare, and Chimu, which features a more rustic Peruvian-inspired menu, it's either fortuitous timing or bandwagoneering. In fact, Osaka was at least five years in the making, inspired by a 2005 trip the Argentinean-born Suaya took to Buenos Aires, where he ate at Osaka, a well-known restaurant in the city's Palermo neighborhood. Subsequent trips to Lima convinced Suaya that, "Peruvian was the next big thing, I just thought it was amazing."
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Located at the corner of Hollywood Boulevard and Ivar, Osaka is divided into three distinct spaces, all tied together by Kris Keith's design. The front bar is a large, future-rustic cave with metalwork, a jagged centerpiece of a bar and a sawtoothed fireplace that looks like a refined setpiece from Mad Max. Outside, the long airy "pisco garden" is overseen by red crossbeams and boasts a glass-backed bar showcasing large jugs of housemade pisco. Inside, the main dining room, is a dark, classy, muted affair, anchored by a 40-seat sushi bar where hunks of raw fish are displayed under discreet lighting. It also features the best Spacecraft design element we've seen in years: a gorgeous ceiling with hundreds of intertwining ropes criss-crossed above the room.