The first thing you need to know about Attari Sandwich Shop is that although the address is on Westwood Boulevard, the entrance is actually around the corner on Wilkins, somewhat hidden by a patio with fountains and statuary. The second thing is that there are no arcade games of Pac-Man or Asteroids. There is, however, a menu with a gaggle of Persian sandwiches, from basics like sausages (sosee) and kebabs of minced meat (koobideh) to less common offerings like brain and beef tongue.
The most famous sandwich here is the beef tongue, which is certainly tender though sometimes dry and livened up by tomato chunks, shredded lettuce and soft, sour pickles. The chicken "kotlet" sandwich is filled with small, soft patties of ground chicken, with potatoes and spices, a result that seems, both in texture and in flavor, more like a falafel patty more than a cutlet.
Everything is served on soft French bread, which is the secret star at Attari. Though the shop is known for its sandwiches, the bread may go best with the osh (spelled at most other Iranian restaurants as "ash"), a thick, green lentil stew drizzled with tart yogurt and sprinkled with shavings of sweet fried onions. At $4.95 for a bowl large enough for two people, it's a terrific deal and the perfect way to warm up on a cold L.A. night.
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Elina Shatkin is a staff writer at LA Weekly. Follow her at @elinashatkin or contact her at email@example.com.