Ian Larsson and Christer LarssonEXPAND
Ian Larsson and Christer Larsson
Courtesy Alta Nordic Kitchen

Add One to L.A.'s Tiny List of Scandinavian Restaurants

Los Angeles has never fully embraced Scandinavian food, but maybe now, in this post-Noma world, the time is right.

Christer Larsson, whose résumé includes a stint as executive chef at New York City's celebrated Aquavit, took a long break from kitchen work while working as a consultant to a hotel group. But he's back behind the stove — now joined by his son, Ian — at the new ALTA Nordic Kitchen.

L.A. has a small number of Scandinavian restaurants scattered about, such as Hygge Bakery, Olson's (which is also a gourmet shop) and Gravlax, which also serves Turkish food. Scandia, the legendary Scandinavian-French restaurant, closed in 1989. There was briefly another Scandinavian restaurant, perhaps in Santa Monica, in the mid-aughts — I believe it was well-regarded but I can't remember the name, and it didn't last long.

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But Scandinavian culture (and that Danish hygge lifestyle) is having a moment, so now may be the perfect time to build a business on shrimp, smoked salmon, meatballs and chocolate cake. And herring, potatoes and apple cake. ...Yes, the timing and the menu seem right.

7274 Melrose Ave., Fairfax; (323) 746-5221, altanordickitchen.com.

Gravlax and skagen (shrimp) toastEXPAND
Gravlax and skagen (shrimp) toast
Courtesy Alta Nordic Kitchen


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