An event restaurant the second it opened its doors, Ray's is just past Chris Burden's street-lamp installation at the L.A. County Museum of Art, in a glowing minimalist rectangle that abuts the soaring Ahmanson Gallery like a glass shoebox parked next to a refrigerator. The space is designed by Renzo Piano, and the interior, punctuated by vitrines displaying LACMA's teacup collection, acts as both a building and a secret vantage space. It is not art but it anticipates art. Chef Kris Morningstar, whom we have seen here at Meson G, Blue Velvet and District, has designed one of the most seasonal, farm-based menus in town, so that ramp risotto you enjoyed midspring will be supplanted by truffled-rice agnolotti in the fall; pork belly with beets by pork belly with oatmeal and dandelion greens. Although the menu is vegetable-intensive, it is far, far from butter-free. Ray's, named in honor of the late film producer Ray Stark, may be the restaurant that this plaza deserves. At LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd., Mid-City. (323) 857-6180, raysandstarkbar.com. Lunch, noon-3 p.m.; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Closed Wed. Full bar. Valet parking in front of light sculpture. AE, MC, V. California/Mediterranean.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

Jonathan Gold's Introduction
Anne Fishbein's Photos
The Google Map

The List:

A-Frame
Akasha
Alcazar
Angeli Caffe
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Antojitos Carmen
Attari
Babita
Bludso's
Border Grill
Bottega Louie
Bulgarini Gelato
Cacao
Campanile
Casa Bianca
Chang's Garden
Chego
Chichén Itzá
Chung King
Church & State
Ciro's
Comme Ça
Cut
Dae Bok
Din Tai Fung
Drago Centro
El Huarache Azteca
El Parian
Elvirita's
Euro Pane Bakery
Eva
Fab Hot Dogs
Father's Office
Fig
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Golden State
Good Girl Dinette
The Gorbals
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Huckleberry
Hungry Cat
Ink.
Jar
Jitlada
Kiriko
Kobawoo
La Casita Mexicana
Langer's
Larkin's
Lazy Ox Canteen
Le Comptoir
Little Dom's
Lou
Lucques
LudoBites
Lukshon
Mantee
Marouch
Mayura
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Mezze
Mo-Chica
Mother Dough
Mozza
Musso & Frank Grill
Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant
The Nickel
Night + Market
Oinkster
101 Noodle Express
Palate Food + Wine
Park's Barbecue
Picca
Playa
Pollos a la Brasa
Providence
Ray's
Red Medicine
Rivera
Rustic Canyon
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Sea Harbour
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
Spice Table
Street
Tacos Baja Ensenada
Tasting Kitchen
Terroni
Tsujita L.A.
Vincenti
Waterloo & City

 

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