Dear Mr. Gold:

I am hoping you can let me know of a restaurant that is risqué, inexpensive .?.?. and serves delicious sushi. I’m celebrating a birthday and could use a really sexy night out. The naughty-sushi place on Sunset is too pricey for my crowd.

—Cecilla Marquez, Los Angeles

Dear Ms. Marquez:

Hadaka, the new naughty-sushi restaurant, seems perfect, but it may be too pricey for any crowd that doesn’t include investment bankers or B-list actors. Sure, you can get sushi rolls called things like Glory Hole or O-Face, as well as a sashimi plate called Pocket Rocket and a miso-marinated cod dish referred to as MILF, but the restaurant’s specialty, as described in The New York Times, is nyotaimori — sushi served off the body of a naked model — which seems to cost a cool $1,100 extra. Koi, Katana and Geisha House, maybe the Brentwood Katsu-ya too, are definitely sexy, and have fine sushi, but are not cheap. Tama and Kiriko have great sushi, among the best in town, and aren’t prohibitively expensive, but are as sexy as flannel pajamas. Which leaves us with .?.?. Celadon? Not that cheap. One of the Korean clubs? Or maybe Yatai, on the Sunset Strip, which advertises itself as an Asian tapas lounge but has interesting sashimi specials, a decent sake list and a patio that is a perfect place to lounge lasciviously while nibbling on a warm bit of albacore. 8535 Sunset Blvd., W. Hlywd., (310) 289-0030.

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