Los Angeles is both lucky and unusual in that it's rich in Peruvian cuisine — even high-end Peruvian cuisine, thanks to Nobu's longtime influence and, more recently, Ricardo Zarate. Zarate's Picca may be this country's most perfect expression of upscale Peruvian, a glorious merging of the lime-, coconut- and potato-heavy cuisine of Peru with the loud, fun, bar-driven culture of L.A. There's energy in this restaurant: energy in the room, energy on the plate. The menu is divided into categories that are not mutually exclusive (Street, Family, Play, Proper); there's not a whole lot of rhyme or reason to what you can expect from each, other than that the dishes will be uniformly delicious. Ceviches are bright and fresh and often come with an unexpected twist, while the Causa Bar offers bites of zing (spicy yellowtail; lobster and caviar) atop bites of whipped potato, like a play on nigiri sushi. Lots of dishes come on a stick or in some other bite-sized, share-friendly preparation. The cocktails by Julian Cox are not only fantastic but they actually match the food — no easy trick with a menu this wide-ranging and colorful. 9575 W. Pico Blvd., Pico-Robertson; (310) 277-0133, piccaperu.com. Daily, 6-11 p.m. Entrees $12-$25. Full bar.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

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