You come to Pa-Ord for the extra-murky boat noodles, also known as kuay tiew rua, one of Thailand's most beloved street foods. Sure, the bowl is filled with scraps of offal you might not be able to identify: perforated squares of tripe, a slice of liver or spleen, a handful of crushed-up chicharron, a fish ball or two bobbing in the soup like pale caramel apples. But even those uninitiated into the powerful flavors of Thai cooking can appreciate the deftness with which Pa-Ord blends spicy, sour, sweet and salty. There are some slippery rice noodles, too, wide or thin, based on your preference. But really, it's all about that broth — a dark brown liquid that might look innocuous but can be made with enough chile flakes to burn off half your taste buds. 5301 Sunset Blvd., Hlywd.; (323) 461-3945, paordnoodle.menutoeat.com. Daily, 9:30 a.m.-10:45 p.m. Entrees $6-$10. No alcohol.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

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