If you adore restaurants, if you're addicted to the sounds, the energy and the spectacle of dining out, there's hardly anyplace in L.A. that's more of a thrill than Osteria Mozza. When you step in through the huge, dark doors into the noise and activity, you know you've arrived somewhere important, a place where dreams of Italian cuisine done right might come true. Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich's restaurant, which was created loosely around the idea of a mozzarella bar, has become one of Los Angeles' great statement restaurants, a declaration that California has something important to add to the Italian tradition. Much of what goes on here feeds our specific food obsessions — the mozzarella bar, the amaro bar, executive chef Matt Molina's gorgeous, handmade pastas: francobolli di brasato with crushed duck liver and black truffle, or squid ink chitarra “Freddi” with Dungeness crab, sea urchin and jalapeño. With one of the best wine lists in the city, this is a smashingly fun place to drink if you're serious about cocktails or wine, and it's a smashingly fun place to dine if you care about food and restaurants — whether it's the grand statement or simply the pleasure of eating extremely well. 6602 Melrose Ave, Hancock Park; (323) 297-0100, osteriamozza.com. Mon.-Fri., 5:30-11 p.m.; Sat., 5-11 p.m.; Sun., 5-10 p.m. Entrees $27-$78. Full bar.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

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