The oddest restaurant in Koreatown may be the barbecue joint Feng Mao, a nondescript corner dining room where northeastern Chinese cooks prepare the Beijing version of Xinxiang barbecue for a Korean-speaking clientele; Muslim-style cooking accompanied by little dishes of kimchi and presented in a pork-intensive, alcohol-intensive dining room. Read more in Jonathan Gold's “Of Cumin Bondage: Korean at Feng Mao.”
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