The artistry here is not about food manipulations, or plating-as-painting, or lofty, high-priced experiences. Quite the opposite. When it comes to his food, if anything chef-owner Kris Yenbamroong is an anthropologist and preservationist, hoarding and re-creating recipes from Thailand and making no moral distinctions between flavors he discovers on the streets in small villages and what he finds on strip-club buffets. Read the full review:Night + Market Song Review: Kris Yenbamroong Creates a Restaurant as Pop Art
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