Kris Yenbamroong is as much a cultural curator as he is a chef. At Night + Market, Yenbamroong presents the unadulterated, riotous flavors of Northern Thailand's street food in all their complexity. His menu on any given night is likely to include pig tails, white pepper frog legs, sour pork sausage and larb made with “dried herbs smuggled back from Chiang Rai in a suitcase.” The meal's stinky/salty/offal component actually is far less challenging than the intense heat levels of most dishes, but don't let any of this dissuade you. No, really: This is some of the most astonishing, delicious food available anywhere. The plain, bright white space attached to Talesai (his parents' far more standard Thai restaurant) is adorned with pictures of Yenbamroong's family's hometown in Thailand, his tennis idol, Pete Sampras, and odd '70s art movies or glam-rock performances projected soundlessly on the wall. Picnic tables and benches make up the seating. It's all thrown together in the best possible way. Sit, sweat and prepare to have your mind blown — as well as your palate. 9041 Sunset Blvd., W. Hlywd.; (310) 275-9724, nightmarketla.com. Tues.-Sun., 6-10:30 p.m. Entrees $10-$19. Full bar.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

Advertising disclosure: We may receive compensation for some of the links in our stories. Thank you for supporting LA Weekly and our advertisers.