In restaurant news, Mr. Cecil's California Ribs opened yesterday in Manhattan Beach. With two other locations in West Hollywood and Sherman Oaks, Jonathan Burrows' kitschy Southern barbecue-joint-gone-Hollywood reflects the chef's dueling hats as veteran theater and film producer and popular grill master. Whether it's beef, baby back, or St. Louis style ribs, there's tender meat on big bones for everyone. No self-conscious eaters allowed. Be prepared to strap on a bib and show some rib.

Cecil's California Ribs: 1209 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach; 310 546-5400.

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