If you want to experience the rarefied pleasures of Nobu Matsuhisa's Los Angeles restaurants, you can dine at the palatial new Nobu Malibu, a pebble's throw from the Pacific surf, or at the David Rockwell–designed Nobu Los Angeles, in the company of, maybe, Robert de Niro and the ghosts of L'Orangerie, the swank French restaurant that once occupied the space. Or you can wander a few doors down La Cienega from Nobu Los Angeles to the relative proletarian comfort of the original Matsuhisa, which the chef opened in 1987. Sit at the bar and order one of the pretty plates of black cod with miso that made Nobu, well, Nobu. Sure, you can order the stunning procession of omakase or some of the Peruvian-inflected dishes that Nobu originated. But there are also simple donburi bowls, and the same chocolate soufflé that's been on the menu for years. Sometimes simple is better, and beauty is less about people and scene than about what your bento box slides open to reveal. 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 659-9639, nobumatsuhisa.com. Mon.-Fri., 11:45 a.m.-2:15 p.m.; daily, 5:45-10:15 p.m. Entrees $21-$44. Sushi: market price. Omakase: $90-$150 and up. Beer and wine.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

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