It's hard to call what Sang Yoon does at Lukshon “fusion,” any more than you'd use the word to describe the imaginative fiddlings of any great chef; the term gets used because the building blocks are Asian and the outcome isn't always familiar. Or, rather, it's familiar right until the knockout punch. There's lamb tartare with cumin and pickled Fresno chilis, punctuated by crispy, puffed black rice. There's Chinese eggplant, crisp and soft and sweet, topped with fennel raita and tomato sambal. The dandan noodles, electric with Sichuan peppercorns, are boldly addictive, uncompromisingly spicy, salty and fun. Vietnam, Thailand, India and China all make appearances, offering flavor guidelines and an uncompromising aesthetic of audacious, spicy, tart flavors, but Yoon takes over from there — this is his food, plain and simple. In this sleek room, with its fruity but grown-up cocktails and brashly flavored modern Asian small plates, the terminology is far less important than the vision, which is crystal clear and utterly successful. 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City; (310) 202-6808, lukshon.com. Tues.-Fri., noon-3 p.m.; Tues.-Thurs., 5:30-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat., 5:30-10:30 p.m. Plates $7-$28. Full bar.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

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Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
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Il Grano
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Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
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The Hungry Cat
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JTYH Heavy Noodle II
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Kiriko
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Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
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Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
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Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
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Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
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Pann's
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Philippe the Original
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