Our Critics' Picks


Zeke's Smokehouse Barbecue

2209 Honolulu Ave.
Montrose, CA 91020


  • Sun, Sat 8am-10pm, Mon-Thu 11am-9pm, Fri 11am-10pm
  • $$
  • Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
  • Beer/Wine
  • Catering, Delivery, Family Style, Kid Friendly, Patio/Sidewalk Dining, Takeout
  • Parking Lot Available, Street Parking
  • Reservations Recommended, Reservations Accepted
This mini-chain of barbecue restaurants was conceived by Leonard Schwartz — which is to say, by the chef who reinserted meat loaf into the American canon 20-odd years ago at 72 Market Street. He’s either a compassionate conservative or a card-carrying postmodernist, and it is impossible to tell just which from the evidence of his food alone. Zeke’s plays both sides of the fence in the barbecue game, serving essentially Piedmont-style pulled pork (with the controversial Carolinian mustard sauce), spare ribs that slouch toward a Kansas City style, and fairly magnificent Texas-style brisket, rimmed with a pink rictus of smoke. The side dishes, which are so beside the point at central Texas barbecue stands as to be practically nonexistent, tend to be pretty great — including hush puppies, potato chips fried to order and the only barbecue-hut coleslaw I can ever remember finishing.

Related Stories (1)

  • Ask Mr. Gold
    Wednesday, March 5, 2003 at 11 p.m. by Jonathan Gold

    Q: Where can I find a barbecue beef brisket in L.A. that doesn’t need to be cut with a hacksaw? —Robert Lu A: Having spent a fair amount of time cruising around Texas looking for the next brisket down the road, I feel yo...


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