We've been craving the carne asada en su jugo at Valenzuela's in El Monte, a big pile of browned beef flavored with bacon, plumped out with beans, seasoned with finely chopped onion and cilantro, and moistened with a spicy puddle of juice - maybe as much for the charred chiles served alongside as for the meat itself. Carne asada en su jugo is an unusually compelling dish, smoky and spicy and tart with lime, and almost nothing goes quite so well with an icy bottle of beer.
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Question: In 1976, friends took me to Josefina’s in Venice, where I had a dish I still think about: beefsteak Jalisco-style. Shredded beef in chile-flavored reddish broth, chopped white onions and soft corn tortillas. Fragrant...