The food at this stateside Mexican restaurant with American sensibilities is pretty good, and sometimes even surprises with an occasional spike in quality and deftness. Taquitos have a delicate chewiness and related textural pleasures - the crumble of fresh cotija cheese, the soaking avocado sauce, the threadlike shredded chicken. An ensalada pico de gallo - big chunks of papaya, orange, cucumber, jicama and mango tossed in a lime-and-chile dressing - is especially spirited and quenching. For dessert, it's hard to beat the Mexican hot chocolate with cookies.
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It’s a Friday night in the Valley, and I’m standing around at the entrance to Señor Fred’s, a new Mexican restaurant in Sherman Oaks. A chef whose cooking I really like — Andre Guerrero of the sophisti...