Our Critics' Picks


Ramen Yamadaya

3118 W. 182nd St.
Torrance, CA 90504
Ramen Yamadaya

Photo: Noah Galuten


  • Sun 12pm-9pm, Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, Mon-Fri 5pm-12am, Sat 12pm-12am
Yamadaya takes porkiness to a new extreme, a tongue-coating, brain-penetrating pig plasma that comes at you as if shot from an umami gun set to stun. You don't just eat Yamadaya ramen, you wear it like a straitjacket. You're not going anywhere until you're done. The room is long and bare; the noodle-sotted customers have the distinct, hollow-eyed look of screenwriters and grad students. One sees the occasional order of the kare-age fried chicken, which is OK in a bento-box kind of way, but that's taking the coward's way out. The one permissible variation is tsukemen, thick chewy noodles served by themselves, with a superfunky dipping sauce - basically the tonkotsu broth boiled down to a fish-laced syrup - on the side.

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