Our Critics' Picks


Prime Pizza

446 N. Fairfax Ave.
Los Angeles, California
By design, the pizza-slice joint will always emphasize convenience over quality. Only a magic oven can fully revive a slice of pepperoni that’s been sitting under a heat lamp. Prime Pizza on Fairfax, the new-wave slice joint from the team behind Cofax Coffee and The Golden State, just might have that magic oven. The thin, New York-style slices come out crisp but pliable, paved with a layer of mozzarella that actually resembles and tastes like, well, cheese. The sausage pie, topped with onions, peppers and sweet-smoky sausage, is even better when ordered whole and baked to order — perfectly foldable and spread with just enough sauce to keep the golden-brown crust moist. It’s the kind of pizza you dream of when a house party stretches into wee hours of the night and the fridge is empty. The garlic knots — twists of over-baked cardboard at most pizza joints — are soft and chewy, tasting of warm sourdough and buttery garlic. The young sneakerheads loitering outside the streetwear shops along Fairfax couldn’t be happier. -- Garrett Snyder

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