Los Angeles, CA 90017
Danny Liao Roast suckling pig
- Coffee Bar: daily, 7 a.m.-5 p.m.; Aperitivo Bar: daily, 5 p.m.-close; Lobby: Breakfast, daily, 7-10:30 a.m.; lunch, Mon.-Fri., noon-2:30 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., noon-3 p.m.; dinner, daily, 5:30-10 p.m.; Giannini Bar, Mon.-Thu., noon-12 a.m.; Fri.-Sat., noon-1 a.m.; Sun., noon-11 p.m. Mezzanine: dinner, Sun.-Thu., 6-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6-10:30 p.m.
- Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Late Night
- Full bar
If you're in the mood for a trip to New York but don't want to fly, you can check into NoMad Los Angeles for a multilevel experience. Restaurateur Will Guidara and the Sydell Group, which owns NoMad New York, have meticulously restored the elegant downtown landmark Giannini Building at Seventh and Olive and turned it into a 241-room hotel with two stories' worth of drinking and dining possibilities. Swiss chef and co-owner Daniel Humm is at the helm. On the ground floor you'll find a variety of options, including the coffee bar, modeled after the 300-year-old Caffe Florian in Venice, Italy. The library is dark and mirrors the vibe of its New York sister. There are anterooms and quiet corners to sip and talk, including the low-lit parlor off the library. The all-day Lobby Restaurant serves new American dishes such as chickpea panisse and looks like a spot you might find Hannah and her sisters having lunch. It's a colorful, French-inspired cross between the Polo Lounge and the Palm Court at the Plaza in New York. Off the main lobby you'll find the Giannini Bar, named after Bank of Italy founder Amadeo Giannini, who originally commissioned the building for his corporate headquarters in 1922. Overlooking the bustling and regimented scene on the ground floor, and at eye level of the fully restored intricate gold and blue Italianate ceiling, is the elegant and very sophisticated Mezzanine, which has a formal dining area and bar. While the ingredients are local, the menu has a definite New York taste (and price tag) to it. The foie gras torchon appetizer is surely one of the best this side of the Mississippi and looks more like a dessert, served with pears, red walnuts and black onion. Served in a square with no visual hint of its origin, the roast suckling pig is a crispy layer of skin resting on tender and juicy confit flesh, with persimmons, wild spinach and bacon marmalade. The scallops are perfectly seared and delicate, served with hen of the woods mushrooms. Finish it all off with a baked Alaska flamed at your table. —Michele Stueven
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