What you'll find here is about as close to the Platonic ideal of the Osaka okonomiyaki as you could hope for -- a regional variation where garnishes are mixed into the batter and griddled crisp like an overstuffed latke. On top goes a latticework of Kewpie mayo, a sweet thickened-Worcestershire sauce, and a wave of quivering bonito, micro-thin shavings of dried fish that wilt in the heat like pale pink wood shavings.
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That new metro stop whose opening you've been awaiting: not complete. Those suspension-shredding chuckholes on your street: not filled. But there is still good news. It's not as hard to find good Japanese okonomiyaki in Los Angeles ...