Our Critics' Picks


Go's Mart

22330 Sherman Way
Canoga Park, CA 91303
Critics' Pick
Go's Mart

Amy Scattergood toro with gold leaf at Go's Mart


  • Sun., noon-7:30 p.m.; Mon.-Sat., noon-3 p.m., 5:30-9 p.m.
The particularly Los Angeles tenet that some of the best food is found in crappy strip malls is nowhere more true than at Go's Mart, the remarkable sushi restaurant inside a Canoga Park oasis of concrete, between a tiny dance studio and a massage parlor. Walk inside, and you'll still think you're in a nail salon (orange walls, linoleum floor) until you see the sushi bar at the back of the place, where Go has worked his magic for the last 18 years. Mrs. Go — who spends her very early mornings at International Marine downtown, sourcing the pristine fish — will bring you tea and, eventually, your hefty bill, but it is her husband who will present you with the plates of kelp halibut and aji, kimmedai and toro. Many, perhaps too many, of the gorgeous pieces of fish come graced with truffle or gold leaf, increasing the sense of incommensurateness you feel eating fantastic sushi in the decidedly grungy setting. Just turn up your irony meter: The food is worth it. —Amy Scattergood

Related Stories (3)

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    Tuesday, July 15, 2014 at 6 a.m. by Amy Scattergood

    The vast quadrant of L.A. that is the San Fernando Valley, with Simi Valley to the west and Glendale to the east, is not, as some people seem to think of it, a food desert. Far from it. In fact, the Valley is home to such a dispropo...

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    Do you want to drive miles across the far northwestern reaches of the San Fernando Valley only to find yourself parked in a decrepit Canoga Park strip mall searching for a "sushi" sign near a tiny door, sandwiched between a Papa Joh...

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