Spencer Bezaire oversees the kitchen at Silver Lake's El Condor, which serves queso flameado in a cast-iron pan, bubbling and stretchy and about as refined as a vat of melted cheese can get. All the usual suspects are here — tacos, tortas, enchiladas, quesadillas — but they get an upgrade in both ingredients and technique. Made on-site, the thick tortillas thrum with the comforting heft of corn. The salsa verde tastes of actual roasted tomatillos, all sweet at the edges and slightly smokey. And while the enchiladas have the sloppy, wondrous quality of their predecessors at El Conquistador, here rather than finding sketchy shredded meat within, the protein is served whole on top of the enchiladas, where you can taste its quality. — Besha Rodell
Read our review of El Condor.
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