Our Critics' Picks


Capital Seafood

755 W. Garvey Ave.
Monterey Park, CA 91754
Capital Seafood

Photo by Anne Fishbein


  • Daily, 8 a.m.-10 p.m.
  • $
  • Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
  • Beer/Wine
  • Family Style, Private Party
  • Parking Lot Available
  • Reservations Accepted
Capital Seafood (not to be confused with New Capital Seafood) serves traditional dim sum, carts laden with spare ribs steamed with black beans and baked buns stuffed with chicken; floppy rice noodles wrapped around beef and pan-fried dumplings that happen to be filled with snow-pea leaves and shrimp; fried sticky-rice capsules and northern-style soup dumplings that are better than they have any right to be in a dim sum house. You will assuredly find all the steamed shrimp dumplings, the baked barbecued pork buns and the boiled Chinese broccoli of any decent dim sum restaurant, but Capital seems to specialize in the exotica of the dim sum kitchen — the squishy, fragrant, slightly unusual things that might be daunting if they were served in huge quantities, but seem just right in the two-bite portions that come off the dim sum cart: Jell-O-soft beef tendon tinted neon-orange with chilies; steamed shrimp cake stuffed into rounds of powerfully astringent bitter melon; slippery slivers of cattle tripe, two or three different types per bowlful, cooked in a mild yellow curry. Capital also makes a specialty of dessert. The moss-green jellies, the hot tofu with syrup, the mango pudding and the coconut gelatin studded with black beans are superb. But the real tour de force is probably the crock of hot, sweet almond milk baked underneath golden domes of pastry, like the creation of a demented Sinophilic French chef. Boiled sea cucumber will never have universal appeal, but almond milk en croute may come pretty close.

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