Aqui Es Texcoco

5850 S. Eastern Ave.
Commerce, California 90040
Critics' Pick
Aqui Es Texcoco +

Anne Fishbein Fried crickets is one of the unusual dishes at Aqui Es Texcoco.


  • Daily, 8 a.m.-9 p.m.
  • Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
  • Kid Friendly, Patio/Sidewalk Dining
Mexican barbacoa, rubbed with spices and roasted in agave leaves until it collapses into large tender chunks, is a wonderful thing, and at Aqui Es Texcoco, hidden among the industrial-park sprawl of Commerce, pit-roasted lamb is the thing. A northern expansion of Francisco Perez’s popular restaurants in Chula Vista and Tijuana, Aqui Es Texcoco has been mastering the art of barbacoa for the better part of three decades. The signature dish arrives on your table swaddled in aluminum foil and paired with habanero-soaked onions, two squeeze bottles of salsa and as many bowlfuls of gamey, concentrated lamb stock as you can handle. There are other delights that might catch your attention: beer-marinated grilled quail, crispy brain tacos, giant crunchy curls of toasted cheese stuffed with huitlacoche, guacamole sprinkled with fried grasshoppers. Yet everyone here seems to be eating the chewy, crisp-edged barbacoa, and you should, too. With a stack of soft corn tortillas in hand, you assemble do-it-yourself tacos until you run out of meat. Depending on how much you order — it’s not uncommon for a large table to order by the kilo, and a whole lamb head will cost you only $20 — that could take a while. —Garrett Snyder


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