Animal

435 N. Fairfax Ave.
Fairfax, CA 90048
323-782-9225
Critics' Pick
Best Of
Animal +

Anne Fishbein Burrata with crispy hominy

Details

  • Mon.-Thurs. 6 p.m.-10 p.m., Fri. 6:00 p.m.-11 p.m., Sat. 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 6:00 p.m.-11 p.m., Sun. 10:30-2:30 p.m., 6 p.m.-10 p.m.
  • $$$
  • Local Ingredients
  • Dinner, Late Night, Brunch
  • Beer/Wine
  • Street Parking, Valet Parking
  • Reservations Accepted

Animal has spawned an empire but also a way of thinking and cooking and serving and being that barely existed in the restaurant world before its arrival. Pull-no-punches, meat-driven, casual and fun restaurants — which are nonetheless quality-focused above all else — are ubiquitous now, and you can thank Animal in large part for that fact. That it has barely changed in its decade of existence and yet still seems so current might help explain why owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo have been able to spin its success into such a huge platform. They were ahead of their time then, and their more recent projects continue to push L.A.'s dining culture in unexpected and giddily fun directions. If you want to understand our city's dining scene, you still have to eat at Animal. You need to vie for a table in the perpetually packed room; to dive into the ridiculously rich and stupidly enjoyable oxtail poutine; to eat foie gras on a biscuit with maple sausage gravy and wonder how the minds that came up with those delicious obscenities could also deliver delicacy and balance in a hamachi tostada with peanuts and avocado. The duck confit with heirloom beans, collard greens, porchetta spice and bronze fennel is popular these days. We don't know what dining in L.A., or America, would look like had Animal never roared into existence, and we're happy we'll never have to find out. —Besha Rodell

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