The fragrance of charred meat, garlic and hot tortillas on the griddle at Birrieria La Barca Jalisco is maddening. At La Barca you�ll see that almost everybody is getting either molcajetes or the birria, seething mortars of shrimp, or the birrieria�s titular bowl of goat. Read Jonathan Gold's “At El Monte�s Birrieria La Barca Jalisco, spicy transcendence comes in a molcajete.”
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