Krua Siri, a small pillbox of a restaurant located in the eastern stretch of Thai Town, might be best known among locals as the place that delivers until 3 a.m. every day of the week. But we think of it as the place with a dynamite assemblage of Northern Thai menu items, including fragrant curries, four-day fermented sausage, and a potent laab salad made with crispy bits of duck skin and toasted rice. You can get your som tam, a bracingly tart and spicy papaya salad, retrofitted with grilled prawns or raw crab. And those things resembling malformed chicken wings? Miniature quail rubbed with garlic and fried to a delicate crisp. Though much of the best stuff on the menu isn't translated into English, the waitstaff is happy to steer you away from orange chicken and teriyaki salmon if you express interest in the more exotic offerings. 5103 Hollywood Blvd., Hlywd.; (323) 660-6196, kruasiri.com. Mon.-Sun., 11 a.m.-2:45 a.m. (kitchen closes at 2 a.m.). Entrees $7-$15. Beer and wine.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

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