This is the time of year when seemingly every American restaurant, from the biggest big box chain eatery to the most humble mom and pop diner, rolls out pumpkin-addled flibbertygibbets and peppermint-studded whatsamawhoosits. We're not averse to the pleasures of a latte rimmed with chocolate-coated candy cane shards, but our most coveted and quintessentially Angeleno treat tends toward the cool. It's the pumpkin ice cream at Bennett's, and it's here, now.

May we suggest pairing it with a scoop of Choffee Choffee? Like the Father, Son and Holy Ghost, choffee blends three distinct elements — chocolate, coffee and toffee — into a unified whole that makes perfect sense, as long as you don't think about it too long. They're three but also one, three but one — how can this be? Yet it is.

Part of what makes the pumpkin ice cream at Bennett's so thoroughly Angelenic is the experience of eating it. There you are, on a mid-November night, outdoors, licking a ball of frozen dairy with nothing more than a sweater and a scarf required to enjoy some of the finest ice cream the city has to offer. That's a happy holiday.

Elina Shatkin is a staff writer at LA Weekly. Follow her at @elinashatkin or contact her at eshatkin@laweekly.com.

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