Happy Anniversary, Evan Kleiman. Or, more accurately, Happy Anniversary Agneli Caffé, which opened its Melrose Avenue doors 25 years ago today.

The chef, cookbook author and host of KCRW's Good Food is profiled in today's L.A. Times' food section cover story (check out the photo of Kleiman in a giant stock pot). Now that Kleiman has stopped baking pies for her months' long Pie-a-day project, she'll be making latkes, pot roast and suganiyot (jelly donuts) for a Hannuka Dinner on December 17th; and sardines with fried Meyer lemon and oregano for a Feast of the Seven Fishes on December 22nd. And look for specials to celebrate the anniversary in January. Kleiman opened Angeli with “just 24 seats, a single door refrigerator and no hot food.” A quarter century later, she's got a great deal of hot food, a pretty sweet restaurant–and a whole community to go with it.

Angeli Caffé: 7274 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 936-9086.

LA Weekly