Anne Fishbein
Gus’s World Famous Hot & Spicy Chicken originated in Mason, Tennessee, a family business that dates back to the 1960s. The L.A. location, which opened in June at the corner of Crenshaw and West Pico in Mid-City, is the first Gus’s west of Texas. Each location is based on the Memphis store, which is to say they all feel homey and un-chainlike. Gus’s does not have different categories of spiciness. There’s only one level: “hot & spicy.” Plates come with two or three pieces of chicken, white or dark meat, atop a slice of white bread and with baked beans and coleslaw as sides. The coating on the chicken is thin and shatter. You may find yourself dazed and covered in red and brown grease and wondering where all that chicken went when you had planned to take at least one piece home with you. And maybe you want another piece. Maybe you could just sit here and eat this chicken indefinitely. Read the review here.
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