Austrian chef Bernhard Mairinger has combined two polar opposite cuisines – Austrian and Californian – for a playful and whimsical menu that lives up to his Culver City restaurant’s name, Lustig, the German word for fun.
Having come off two months of Gemuetlichkeit and eating my way through the Bavarian Alps, I’ll admit I was skeptical. Nevertheless, I squeezed into my dirndl and gave the colorful and friendly Michelin Guide Restaurant in the historic Helms Building in Culver City a spin.
It’s hard not to have fun with the cocktail menu that pays homage to the towering chef’s Austrian roots and the rich movie history of Culver City. There’s the Hedy Lamargarita with a choice of tequila or mezcal with paprika, lime and caraway, an Arnold Schwarzenegroni with hibiscus gin, Bavarian aperitivo and East Indian sherry as well as the Christoph’s Waltz that blends gin and pear schnapps with quince vinegar and pilsner cordial. There’s also a non-alcoholic Strudel Sour with green apple, strudel tea, and cinnamon.
Appetizer standouts include the steak tartare bruschetta, a perfect blend of (not too much) black truffle, cornichons, capers and arugula dusted with a mild truffle pecorino on milk bread. Mairinger’s signature bigeye tuna cannoli is a California combination of heirloom tomato, soy braised onions, cucumber and sriracha painted with an avocado cream. Pair those with either a smooth glass of St. Laurent Umathu or crisp Roter Veltliner from Austria’s Burgenland.
There are plenty of vegetable and potato sides and a selection of pizzas including raclette with radicchio and housemade pickled vegetables and a a goulash pie. Veal or chicken schnitzels come in various sizes and international interpretations including the Viennese original, German jaeger schnitzel with mushroom sauce, Italian with California-grown tomato sauce, mozzarella and Parmesan cheese. Personal favorite – the Cordon Bleu baked with ham and cheese blanketed with herb bechamel and provolone cheese. Koestlich.
For traditionalists, there’s a 12-hour braised beef cheek sauerbraten with herb spaetzle and crispy onions. Mairinger pushes the kuvert with an adventurous take on red cabbage by adding melted chocolate, which may be a challenge for purists.
And yes of course, there’s a sausage platter and desserts that Austrians are famous for like a Lustig take on German chocolate cake, a delicate tower of chocolate mille feuille, chocolate creme and Fabbri cherries served alongside mascarpone ice cream. For an authentic Austrian dessert that you’ll have a hard time finding this side of the Danube, try the topfenknoedel, a ricotta cheese dumpling with rhubarb compote, strawberry, and sweet breadcrumbs.
The warm and comfortable space, designed by STUDIO UNLTD, also has a beautiful bar stocked with an impressive eau de vie selection and a Lustig vibe.
The Oktoberfest menu includes fresh baked German pretzels with sweet Bavarian mustard, beef bone marrow consommé served with cheesy pretzel dumpling bites, bone marrow and chives and poached weisswurst for starters. Modern fest classics include blood sausage gyoza, venison tenderloin medallions, and Rohan duck breast. The menu will be served seven days a week from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. in addition to the regular menu from Monday, Oct. 7 through Sunday, Oct. 20.