Elina Shatkin
To which school of cooking, precisely, do the concoctions from The Nacho Truck (@nachotruckla) belong: baroque or stoner? The line between the two can be thin.
The combos ($7-11) are elaborate, sometimes excessive — gleefully so. Lamb with goat cheese, olive tapenade, garbanzo beans and cucumber yogurt sauce? Sure. Sweet barbecued baked beans with beefy chili, blue cheese, cheddar and bacon? Pile it on. Why not when the chips are freshly fried from flour tortillas? (Corn chips are available on request.) The warm, flaky triangles are piled with quality ingredients, including a housemade cheese sauce that should put to rest any lingering memories of those gallon drums of orange nacho sauce served at Friday night high school football games.
Does the nacho truck go overboard sometimes? Yes. (Pro-tip: Ask for your Fly Over State without the blue cheese; it drowns out the chili.) In moderation, a little excess isn't such a bad thing. Nacho libre.
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