A few months ago, our 6 year-old foodie took on the In-N-Out burger and the Father's Office burger, enjoying both but criticizing FO's for its structural integrity and lack of consistency from one bite to the next. In the end, he decided that the best burger was, in fact, from The Golden State. Today, he takes on what is likely the most expensive burger he has ever eaten in his life: Rustic Canyon's $16 Niman Ranch burger with gruyere, onion fondue, bread and butter pickles and herb remoulade.

He takes his first two bites. “That is just good,” he says confidently. “It's really good. I love it much more than Golden State burger.”

Much more?” I ask him.

“Yeah. The cheese is much creamier.”

“Are you sure it's not hard to tell because you haven't had the Golden State burger in a while?”

“No. This is better. They both have this… what is this?”

“Arugula.”

“They both have arugula, but this is one is the best. It's kind of wet. I love the wetness. Every bite is good too. And the pickles…”

He takes a bite, chews knowingly. “The pickles are pretty much 'bravo'.”

“What about the french fries?” I continue.

“I like how crunchy they are. And I like the ketchup. But it's kind of weird that they don't serve you napkins though.”

“Wasn't it in your lap?”

“Oh. It's on the floor. But that's not my fault. I put it in my lap and it fell off. It's not my fault.”

“Then whose fault is it?”

“It's physics's fault.”

Rustic Canyon Wine Bar, 1119 Wilshire Boulevard, Santa Monica, (310) 393-7050‎.

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