Anne Fishbein
Wolfdown sits on Rowena Avenue in an edge of the neighborhood that has always been a little sleepier and more residential than the Sunset Boulevard thoroughfare. The menu is international in scope, with lots of Asian influence and a focus on showcasing produce. There's a luminously flavored green garlic bisque dotted with explosively sweet orange cherry tomatoes, its basil garnish and the light sting of the garlic combining for something a little like Thai green curry but much subtler. There are lots of salad variations, most of which focus on contrasts between bitter greens and bright citrus, as well as some sort of creamy element — green goddess dressing; avocado. A chicken and shrimp dumping is almost more like a burger patty than a dumpling, though there is a barely perceptible, thin, crackly dumpling skin around the puck-shaped disk. The wine, beer and sake lists are pretty great, the space is beautiful, and the food is mostly smart, creative and on-trend without being too derivative. There's no doubt that Wolfdown represents an evolution for the Silver Lake neighborhood. Read the review here.
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