Classic Mexican Made New at El Condor

So there's queso with chorizo or mushrooms, but instead of an oozing morass of fake cheese, El Condor serves queso flameado in a cast-iron pan, bubbling and stretchy and about as refined as a vat of melted cheese can get. All the usual suspects are here — tacos, tortas, enchiladas, quesadillas — but they get an upgrade in both ingredients and technique. All photos by Anne Fishbein.

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