Although the San Gabriel Valley abounds in Chinese restaurants of every description, they tend to lean more toward authenticity than toward polish — there are 250 noodle shops but nowhere to explore Chinese haute cuisine. Chang's Garden, although it occupies a strip-mall space that resembles a Chinese Denny's, is one of the few chef-driven restaurants, serving the elegant Hangzhou-style cooking of chef Henry Chang. It's probably the most interesting place to go in this part of the world for the cooking of Eastern China, including a renowned dish of pork ribs steamed in lotus leaves, and a first-rate version of dong po pork, a braised pork-belly dish beloved by Chinese poets. The crisp, rolled beef pancakes; the candied lotus root stuffed with sticky rice; the fresh bacon with chiles; and the whitefish fried into seaweed-enhanced beignets are worthy of further study. Looking for a place to arrange an elaborate Chinese banquet? This may be it. 627 W. Duarte Road, Arcadia. (626) 445-0606. Daily, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Beer and wine. Lot parking. MC, V. Chinese.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

Jonathan Gold's Introduction
Anne Fishbein's Photos
The Google Map

The List:

A-Frame
Akasha
Alcazar
Angeli Caffe
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Antojitos Carmen
Attari
Babita
Bludso's
Border Grill
Bottega Louie
Bulgarini Gelato
Cacao
Campanile
Casa Bianca
Chang's Garden
Chego
Chichén Itzá
Chung King
Church & State
Ciro's
Comme Ça
Cut
Dae Bok
Din Tai Fung
Drago Centro
El Huarache Azteca
El Parian
Elvirita's
Euro Pane Bakery
Eva
Fab Hot Dogs
Father's Office
Fig
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Golden State
Good Girl Dinette
The Gorbals
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Huckleberry
Hungry Cat
Ink.
Jar
Jitlada
Kiriko
Kobawoo
La Casita Mexicana
Langer's
Larkin's
Lazy Ox Canteen
Le Comptoir
Little Dom's
Lou
Lucques
LudoBites
Lukshon
Mantee
Marouch
Mayura
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Mezze
Mo-Chica
Mother Dough
Mozza
Musso & Frank Grill
Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant
The Nickel
Night + Market
Oinkster
101 Noodle Express
Palate Food + Wine
Park's Barbecue
Picca
Playa
Pollos a la Brasa
Providence
Ray's
Red Medicine
Rivera
Rustic Canyon
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Sea Harbour
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
Spice Table
Street
Tacos Baja Ensenada
Tasting Kitchen
Terroni
Tsujita L.A.
Vincenti
Waterloo & City

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