At dinnertime, Black Hogg in Silver Lake places itself firmly in the new school of cooking, serving lots of pork belly, uni on toast and bone marrow in the “street corn.” But with their new lunchtime venture, dubbed Sopressata, chef-owner Eric Park has gone old school, serving classic Italian-style subs on crusty bread.

The lunch service launched on Aug. 13, and has been chugging along quietly ever since (except for on Aug. 17 when they held a massive sandwich giveaway, which was not quiet at all). You order your sub at the counter, and the chef delivers it to your table when it's ready. Eight sandwiches in all make up the offerings, including a couple of vegetarian options (another departure from dinner's meat-heavy menu). But the best options are the classic Italian cured meat subs.

The plain sopressata comes with a generous stack of Molinari & Sons sopressata, provolone, wild arugula and vinegary marinated artichokes. For salami lovers, it's quite a treat. The Italian Meats version has a similar vibe but with the addition of coppa and mortadella.

Tuna also gets its due, with a lemony olive oil tuna sub (pole-caught, American, sustainable) that comes with soft boiled egg and just enough aged balsamic to give the whole thing an addictive tang. All of the sandwiches come tightly wrapped in paper, and are easy to take to-go if you've got somewhere to be.

Park owned a sandwich franchise for years, and there's no doubt he's a bit of a sandwich whisperer. It's no longer on the dinner menu, but the bánh mì was one of the best things I had at dinner around when the restaurant opened.

Lunch at Black Hogg is served Tues.-Sat., 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

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