We like the general idea of a Po' Boy Sandwich; typically interpreted as fried seafood on a French roll. But we crave an egalitarian, LA-ified version — one with more antioxidants and less calories that's still top-notch delicious. The Vegan Po' Boy at simplethings sandwich & pie shop is just that.

The $8.50 sandwich stars cornmeal coated tofu, so it has a texture reminiscent of a fried oyster, without the oh-dear-I'm-chewing-a-bi-valve factor. (Should that be an issue for you.) The warm tofu is served on a cibatta bun with electric-pink pickled onions, arugula and a light handed spread of vegan remoulade – effectively doubling the piquancy. It's startlingly good, and you should try it. There is no one firm definition of a po'boy — it has to have shrimp! Roast beef! Gravy! Pickles! — so why not this brilliant contemporary variation? It's certainly a version that all Angelenos, vegan or not, can love.

This is one of over 400 pieces in our most recent Best of L.A. issue. Check it out.

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