The humble tuna sandwich rarely gets its due. It's one of those foodstuffs we take for granted, in part because even the mediocre ones are pretty good. But what about a great tuna sandwich, one you might crave even in the dead of night? That's what they serve at Sopressata at Black Hogg, the daytime sandwich operation out of the Silver Lake restaurant Black Hogg. As the name suggests, there's an emphasis on Italian cold cuts. Those sandwiches are pretty great, but the thing that keeps us coming back is the tuna sandwich. Served on a super-crusty roll, the pole-caught, sustainable American tuna comes with arugula, a punch of sweet aged balsamic and extra virgin olive oil. The secret to the luxuriant nature of the sandwich is the soft-boiled eggs, which sit atop the tuna in generous halves, giving the whole thing a rich, creamy nature. It's not a reinvention of the tuna sandwich, but it is very good ingredients put together extremely well. —Besha Rodell

2852 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 90026. (323) 953-2820, blackhogg.com.

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