This charmingly old-school joint — and former Sinatra hang — in the southwest corner of West Hollywood has much to commend it, including the (covered) brick patio, which, if not the most romantic in the city, certainly makes our top 10. But the menu item that keeps drawing us back to Dominick's Restaurant is a very simple, very big salad — a heaping plate of soft Bibb lettuce, simply dressed with creme fraiche and lemon and then topped with a veritable cup of crispy shoestring leeks. We've ordered this salad at least a half-dozen times, and each time we've found ourselves wondering why more places don't use creme fraiche as dressing, why crispy leeks aren't mandatory at every salad bar. The perfect mélange of crunchy and creamy, citrusy and tangy, is both deceptively simple and really that easy. Order one to share; did we mention this thing is huge? 8715 Beverly Blvd., W. Hlywd. (310) 652-2335, dominicksrestaurant.com.

—Sarah Fenske

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