Addi's Tandoor is the kind of dark, white-tablecloth place that I'm hard-pressed to keep my 8-year-old quiet in. But we brave it because the food is so damn good. Excellent lamb vindaloo. But it is the saag paneer (cube of mild Indian cheese, like a cross-breeding of tofu and mozzarella, in a spinach sauce) that is a true marvel. Even my late mother, who would wrinkle her New York Italian nose at the thought of Indian food, was smitten with it. The spinach sauce sets it apart. The flavors of the spices keep weaving its way around the tongue in a complex melody. Go along for the ride with a satisfied smile. 800 Torrance Blvd., Ste. 101, Redondo Beach. (310) 540-1616.

—Jedd Birkner

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