Unstoppable force, meet the immovable object; or so we believed when we saw that pastry chef Karen Hatfield put a chocolate mint frozen pavlova on her dessert menu. Coming from one direction is perhaps the most talented, precise and intelligent pastry chef in town. Coming from the other is sweetened egg whites. But while pavlova isn't normally thrilling, Hatfield's isn't a normal restaurant.

It's where we go to be coddled by an exceedingly knowledgeable and warm staff, where every dish arrives just so and every wine pairing reminds us why wines are paired to begin with. It's where pavlova is imbued not only with cacao nibs but also a touch of salt and is combined with a sorbet that shocks us with intense chocolate and mint, resting underneath raspberries marinated in orange syrup. Object, consider yourself — and us — moved.

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