Onigiri (also called omusubi) are one of the best snacks you can eat on a Tokyo bullet train — or on a Santa Monica beach. The little triangular rice cakes are deceptively simple: rice pressed around a filling, then wrapped with a sheet of nori (seaweed) like a study in edible geometry. Despite their simplicity, good iterations of the dish are oddly hard to find. Not so at Sunny Blue, a closet-sized shop on the beachy stretch of Main Street in Santa Monica. The folks behind the counter form the triangles as you watch, from rice that's still a bit warm from a giant rice cooker. The fillings — cured salmon with chile, enoki mushrooms and miso, spicy cod roe, to name a few — are fresh and flavorful, and the seaweed is crisp instead of the soggy stuff you get in lesser iterations. If you get the onigiri to go, it will be folded properly, with tear-away plastic wrap between the nori and the rice. If you get it to eat there, the seaweed will be folded up around the rice, the edges left standing high in lovely, dark green, filigreed sheets. 2728 Main St., Santa Monica. (310) 399-9030, sunnyblueinc.com. —Amy Scattergood

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