Every week seems to bring a new and ever more gimmicky food truck. Lidia's Dominican Kitchen is no pretender. Chef Lidia Ramirez ran a catering company for years, and her pork pernil is a thing of beauty. Tender and fragrant, it's pork shoulder roasted low and slow with plenty of citrus and garlic. If you want more kick, throw on a couple spoonfuls of the creamy white garlic sauce, which could go toe-to-toe with Zankou's pungent paste. Rife with Spanish and Arabian influences, the homey Dominican cuisine at this truck also includes patacon pisao (a green plantain sandwich stuffed with pork or chicken), two kinds of plantains, yuca fries cut as thick as a fat man's thumb and morir soñando, a wonderfully frothy, orange and slightly gritty drink akin to a liquefied Creamsicle. Dominican food is rare in Los Angeles. Dominican food this good that comes off a truck? That's worth chasing. lidiasdominicankitchen.com, twitter.com/lidiasdkitchen.

—Elina Shatkin

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