I've never really had gnocchi before. Oh, I thought I had. But all the gnocchi of my past paled in comparison to Gaetano's. Tiny potatoey pillows of perfection in a tangy Gorgonzola sauce. I pause between forkfuls, lost in gastro-catatonic bliss. To call these mere potato dumplings is like saying the Sistine Chapel has a good paint job. Gaetano's secret: the gnocchi are made fresh every day. So light they seem to melt away like snowflakes on my tongue. On the outside, Gaetano's is unprepossessing, hidden away in a shopping center in suburban Torrance, but on the inside you will find the sublime.

—Jedd Birkner

Advertising disclosure: We may receive compensation for some of the links in our stories. Thank you for supporting LA Weekly and our advertisers.