There may never have been an American restaurant with such metaphysical aspirations as Vespertine. Chef Jordan Kahn said ahead of opening that the food would be inspired by architecture, astronomy and the music of John Cage — and the ensuing project is as ridiculous and divisive and ambitious as a restaurant can be. Kahn has dreamt up for Vespertine an extraterrestrial mythology, a fictitious framework that makes eating here as much performance art as it is dinner. There are aspects of the meal that are absolutely meant to unnerve you rather than delight you. But there is some very real delight to be had. Vespertine is a stunning act of creativity and a singular Los Angeles experience. Read Besha Rodell's full review.