L.A. Weekly
And, as you might imagine, there's a lot of meat: meat that's been smoked, meat that's been grilled, meat that's been churrasco-ed and brasero-ed. The most glorious of these is the applewood-smoked short rib, a lumbering slab on the bone that is as supple and fatty and tender as meat can be while still retaining its form. It comes with a sauce they're calling “Western Sweet,” which tastes as damn close to ketchup as any barbecue sauce I've ever had, but you can choose an assortment of other sauces if you're willing to pay $3 extra. All photos by Anne Fishbein.
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