Dear Mr. Gold:

Where can I purchase duck fat? I want to make confit!

—Leslie Gache

Dear Ms. Gache:

I’m not a fan of canned duck fat — no matter what the experts say, the metallic flavor never seems to come out. But the New York company D’Artagnan sells containers of frozen duck fat, the byproduct of the foie gras that is the company’s specialty. It’s good stuff — I like to toss thinly sliced potatoes with a tablespoon or two, bake in a 350-degree oven until brown and crisp, and garnish with coarse salt and a handful of garlic chopped with parsley. I’ve found D’Artagnan’s duck fat at Bristol Farms and Surfas, but it’s pretty widely available, if expensive.

But why not just roast a duck? A quart or so of fat is bound to remain in the roasting pan, and at the end of the process you get to eat the duck!

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